The inspiration of Tormenta was my personal connection with the maritime industry. My grandfather used to work in Spain as a fisherman. During his retirement he constructed several miniature ships. The womenswear collection is inspired by the construction process of ships. The materials were produced in collaboration with TextileLab Tilburg and categorized into 6 material categories. Each category has its own technique. The only thing in common is that they are all connected with patterns of sails. The material development is more a technical process, and the converting into design is more an intuitive process. The shapes and textures change identity and become alive when contact with water. The materials adapt to the human body and deform naturally. Abstract visual communication based on the energy coming from within and translating into light waves on the materials. Tormenta explores a deeper connection between the wearer and responsive materials. The materials are non seasonal and keep on expanding with every new project. The inspiration for the shoes were also based on the pattern of a sail. This pattern was applied to design the construction. The shoes were 3d printed and afterwards completed with leather handcraft technique.
UNIQUE PROPERTIES / PROJECT DESCRIPTION:
Tormenta starts with material research. All 6 material categories are based on the pattern of a sail. Each sail burst into different shapes and textures. All materials were developed in collaboration with TextileLab. The goal was to create shape into the materials. Afterwards the materials were converted into fashion designs. The remaining materials were used to create material installations. The Tormenta 3d printed shoes were designed in collaboration with Chris van den Elzen and Shapeways.
OPERATION / FLOW / INTERACTION:
There are 6 material categories. Category # 1 shows white nylon and soluble transforming materials. Category # 2 shows black nylon material that looks and shines like leather. Category # 3 shows all the test versions combined from all 6 categories. Category # 4 shows smokey nylon material that looks and shines like mohair. Category # 5 shows red nylon materials that burst in several shapes and textures. Category # 6 show nylon and rubber materials that transforms into pleats.
PROJECT DURATION AND LOCATION:
The first test of Tormenta was shown during the D’days Paris exhibition in May 2015. More test versions were exhibited at the OCT Contemporary Art Gallery Shanghai in October 2015. The designs were shown at the IFS exhibition at Somerset house London in February 2016. Several previews were presented during Amsterdam Fashion Week in January and July 2016. The Tormenta collection was shown during Paris Fashion Week September 2017, and was exhibited at Musée des Arts Décoratifs in January 2018.
PRODUCTION / REALIZATION TECHNOLOGY:
The materials are based on illusion. Sometimes when people look at it, they think it’s leather or mohair. But it’s actually thin tiny nylon that morphs textures. The nylon was recycled from old fishnets and produced with local manufactures. The nylons were afterwards brought to TextileLab. The machines were adjusted to be able to create all the materials. The materials were applied for material research, wearable designs, high fashion and material installations.
SPECIFICATIONS / TECHNICAL PROPERTIES:
Tormenta has 30 looks, European size 34 & 36. 15 dresses, 8 coats, 7 tops, 3 pants and 4 skirts. There are a few larger designs that are 1 size fits all. The largest designs have: a width of max 100 cm, a depth of max 100 cm and a height of max 100 cm. The European sizes of the Tormenta shoes are: 39, 40 and 41. There are 15 pairs of shoes available. 9 x size 39, 3 x size 40 and 3 x size 41. The material installation has a length of 180 cm, a width of 80 cm and a height of 300 cm.
Design luxury fabrics by using sustainable materials. Develop shape into the materials. I drape until I find the perfect fit to create for example: dresses, tops, skirts, pants or coats. All designed materials are 100% used to create wearable designs, but also high fashion and art objects. For the commercial part woman can buy wearable items, and the high fashion designs can be worn by celebrities. The material installations can be exhibited internationally and sold to art collectors or Museums.
The most creative challenge was to accept and let go control in some parts of the design process. I learned that the most beautiful part of creating unique garments is to let the materials grow naturally. In this case Tormenta was born because of a technical flaw that occurred during the weaving process. Within the blueprints I can control every aspect about what I think is going to happen. But the final stage happens when the garments personalizes to the individuals body shape.
TEAM MEMBERS (14) :
Creative director: Jef Montes, Assistant: Kevin Pleiter, Programmer: Judith Peskens, Show production director: Kim Vos, Casting director: Michelle den Hollander, Show production coordinator: Diek Pothoven, Casting director assistant: Py Tswang Jin, Show production coordinator assistant: Zoë Mesman, Intern: Michael de Geus, Intern: Rosa Kampinga, Intern: Eva Gerritsen, Intern: Elke Cloin, Intern: Stijn Koks and Intern: Leontien Berns
Collection Tormenta is inspired by maritime materials. Tormenta means storm and the collection exploits Jef’s family heritage with their love for ships. He studied materials that are used in the process of creating ships. Materials like nylon, brass, carbon and fibreglass were used to create technical fabrics. Jef’s grandfather Gabriël inspired him to create the dessins for Tormenta. When he was younger, he worked on several ships in the south of Spain catching sharks. A few years ago he gave Jef a miniature ship that he handcrafted out of wood. Jef got inspired and it meant the beginning of Tormenta. Like a ship caught in a storm, Jef designs materials that arise and develop like a storm around the body. The collection consists of thirty creations and a material installation. The Tormenta material installation is made from watersoluble material and emphasized with thousands of Swarovski crystals. The Tormenta shoes are designed in collaboration with Chris van den Elzen and produced at Shapeways Eindhoven. The Tormenta materials were developed in collaboration with TextileLab at TextileMuseum Tilburg. The nylon fabrics are all designed by Jef Montes and grouped in six material categories. To showcase how the materials are further developed, a steam installation was made in collaboration with Unlimited FX. The creations in the installation transform from satin to plissé bindings and burst into new materials.